If your property is EPC band E, you’re below the typical rating for much of the housing stock – and that’s increasingly a problem for energy bills, buyers and landlords.
The move from E to D is often a foundational upgrade step. It usually involves dealing with missing or very poor insulation and tackling obvious inefficiencies in your heating system.
This guide covers:
- Why moving from E to D matters
- Which improvements usually deliver the biggest gains
- How to plan upgrades in a realistic, budget-conscious way
For a full overview of improvement options, start with 27 Ways to Improve Your EPC Rating. Here, we focus on what specifically helps an E-rated property.
Why improving from E to D is important
- Energy bills: E-rated homes tend to be significantly more expensive to heat than D or C-rated homes.
- Comfort: You’re more likely to experience cold spots, draughts and condensation.
- Regulation (landlords): Current minimum standards are generally band E – but if your EPC expires and a new assessment drops you below E, you may struggle to let the property without improvements or exemptions.
Improving to D is often the first major milestone – and puts you in a stronger position to eventually reach C if desired.
Step 1: Understand your E rating
Start by grabbing your current EPC:
- Use our EPC checker to find your property by postcode.
- Note your current rating (e.g. E 43) and potential rating (e.g. C 73).
- Read through the recommended measures section.
Typical issues in E-rated homes include:
- Very little or no loft insulation
- Uninsulated cavity or solid walls
- Old electric storage heaters or non-condensing boilers
- Poor or non-existent heating controls
- Single glazed windows and significant draughts
We’ll tackle the most common improvement paths.
Step 2: Fix the worst heat loss first (insulation)
For most E-rated properties, insulation is the single most important factor.
1. Add or top up loft insulation
If your EPC mentions “Loft insulation (less than 100mm)” or similar, you’re likely losing a lot of heat through the roof.
- Aim for 270mm of insulation.
- Typical cost: £300–£600, less if you can do some or all of it yourself.
- Savings: £150–£250 per year depending on fuel type and property size.
This alone can sometimes move an E-rated home into D, especially when combined with smaller improvements. See Does Loft Insulation Improve Your EPC? for more detail.
2. Consider cavity wall insulation (if available)
If you have cavity walls and they’re currently uninsulated:
- Cavity wall insulation can deliver a large EPC jump, often +10–15 SAP points.
- Typical cost: £800–£1,500, but grants may be available.
Check your EPC or speak to an installer to confirm whether your walls are suitable. When combined with loft insulation, many E-rated homes can move to D or even C.
3. Draught proofing and basic fabric improvements
Once you’ve tackled the big gaps, deal with draughts:
- Seal around doors, windows and loft hatches using appropriate draught-proofing products.
- Consider secondary glazing or thicker curtains as interim measures where full window replacement isn’t yet affordable.
For a budget-first approach, see Cheapest Ways to Improve Your EPC Rating.
Step 3: Improve an inefficient heating system
If your EPC shows your heating system as a key weakness, upgrading it can make a large difference.
4. Replace very old gas boilers
If you have a non-condensing or very old gas boiler:
- Upgrading to an A-rated condensing boiler can improve efficiency and EPC scores.
- Combine the boiler upgrade with modern controls for best results.
We cover how much this can help in Does a New Boiler Improve Your EPC? and explain typical installation costs in New Boiler Cost UK (2025 Guide).
5. Improve electric heating (flats and some houses)
If you rely on old electric storage heaters or direct electric panel heaters:
- Consider high-heat-retention storage heaters or efficient electric systems with smart controls.
- In some cases, installing a heat pump may be viable and heavily supported by grants.
Because EPC calculations are sensitive to heating type and fuel, professional advice is essential before making big changes.
Step 4: Major measures (if needed)
If your property is at the bottom of band E (e.g. E 39) and has significant issues, you may need more structural changes such as:
- Solid wall insulation (internal or external) in older homes.
- Upgrading single glazing to double or secondary glazing.
- Installing an air source heat pump where the fabric is strong enough.
These are bigger investments and may be better suited to a long-term plan – especially if you’re ultimately aiming for band C. For period homes, see How to Improve EPC on Victorian House.
How much does it cost to go from E to D?
Costs vary widely, but a typical improvement path might involve:
- £300–£600: Loft insulation
- £800–£1,500: Cavity wall insulation (if suitable)
- £100–£300: Draught proofing and basic fabric improvements
- Optional £1,800–£3,000+: Boiler or heating system upgrade
Total investment to move from E to D is often in the £1,000–£3,000 range, depending on starting condition and property type.
Grants and schemes for E-rated homes
If your property is band E or lower, you may qualify for extra support:
- ECO4 and similar schemes target poorly rated homes, especially for lower-income households.
- The Boiler Upgrade Scheme can help fund heat pumps where appropriate.
- Local councils sometimes offer area-based insulation initiatives.
We summarise the key options in Home Energy Grants UK 2025: Complete Guide to Funding (/insights/home-energy-grants-uk). Check this alongside your EPC recommendations to see where grants might apply.
Landlords: staying on the right side of EPC rules
For landlords, E-rated properties are particularly important:
- Band E is generally the minimum required rating for most new tenancies and renewals (subject to exemptions).
- If a renewed assessment drops your property below E, you may not legally be able to let it without improvements or a valid exemption.
To understand your obligations and options:
- Read EPC Rules for Landlords 2025–2030.
- Check EPC Exemptions for Landlords Explained if improvements are not practical or would exceed cost caps.
- Review Landlord EPC Fines and Penalties to understand the risks of non-compliance.
FAQs
Is it worth improving from E to D if I can’t reach C yet?
Yes. Moving from E to D usually:
- Cuts bills significantly.
- Improves comfort and reduces damp/condensation risks.
- Puts you in a better position for future changes towards C when budget or grants allow.
What if my EPC is old – should I improve first or get a new one?
If your EPC is close to expiring anyway, it can be efficient to:
- Implement a couple of high-impact insulation improvements (e.g. loft/cavity wall).
- Then book a new assessment to capture your improved rating.
If you’re unsure whether your certificate is still valid, check Is My EPC Still Valid?.
What’s the best order to do improvements in?
For most E-rated homes, a sensible sequence is:
- Loft insulation (and cavity wall insulation if available).
- Draught proofing and basic fabric improvements.
- Heating system and controls upgrades.
- Larger measures like windows, solid wall insulation or heat pumps.
Use your property report from our EPC checker and our main guide, 27 Ways to Improve Your EPC Rating, to fine-tune this for your specific home.