If your property is EPC band F, you’re not alone — but you’re also not far from making a meaningful improvement.
In most cases, moving from F → E is one of the most achievable “band jumps”, because you only need to cross the band E threshold.
This guide explains:
- what EPC band F actually means (and how close you are to E)
- the cheapest upgrades that can lift an EPC score quickly
- which improvements usually deliver the biggest EPC point gains for F-rated homes
- typical costs, and when the cheapest options won’t be enough
- what landlords need to know about the minimum EPC standard and exemptions
If you want to see the EPC for your specific address (plus recommended improvements), you can check it by postcode on EPC Advisor:
Check your EPC by postcode
Step 1: Understand what “EPC F” means (and how many points you need)
An EPC rating is based on a points score (often called the SAP score on domestic EPCs).
To move from F to E, you need your property to reach at least 39 points.
As a rule of thumb:
- Band F = 21–38 points
- Band E = 39–54 points
So the maths is simple:
Points needed to reach band E = 39 − your current EPC score
Examples:
- EPC F38 → you only need +1 point
- EPC F34 → you need +5 points
- EPC F25 → you need +14 points
Where to find your score
On your EPC certificate (the first page), you’ll usually see:
- your current rating (F)
- a number next to it (your points score)
- a table of recommended measures, with a predicted rating after each improvement
That recommendations table is incredibly useful, especially if you’re trying to reach E as cheaply as possible.
If you don’t have your certificate handy, you can look it up by postcode:
Find your EPC report
Step 2: Start with the “quick wins” (sometimes enough for F → E)
If your score is 35–38, you may only need one or two low-cost improvements to get over the E threshold.
These upgrades are usually cheap, low disruption, and can be completed quickly.
1) Switch all lighting to LED (and make it “count”)
Typical cost: £20–£120 (depending on number of bulbs and fittings)
Why it helps: EPCs record the proportion of fixed low-energy lighting.
Practical tips:
- Prioritise fixed fittings (ceiling lights, downlights, integrated units).
- Replace old halogen spotlights with LED versions if possible.
- If you have lots of outdated fittings, upgrading lighting can be one of the best “pounds per EPC point” fixes.
2) Draught proof the obvious gaps (without blocking ventilation)
Typical cost: £10–£60 DIY, or around £250 for professional whole-house draught proofing of windows/doors
Why it helps: Reduces uncontrolled heat loss and improves comfort.
Common wins:
- external doors (seals, brush strips, letterbox brushes)
- sash windows (brush strips)
- gaps around pipework
- unused chimney (temporary draught excluder when not in use)
Important:
- Don’t block deliberate ventilation (air bricks, extractor fans, vents).
- If you have an open-flued appliance or open fire, be cautious and get professional advice.
3) Add a hot water cylinder jacket (if you have a tank)
Typical cost: ~£18–£30 for an 80mm jacket
Why it helps: EPCs often reward basic fabric and hot water efficiency upgrades.
This is one of the cheapest “proper” energy upgrades you can make if you have a cylinder, and it’s usually DIY-friendly.
4) Add basic heating controls (if missing)
Typical cost: £100–£400 (varies by system and installer)
Why it helps: EPCs score heating controls and system management.
Controls that often help:
- programmer / timer
- room thermostat
- thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs)
- (sometimes) smart thermostat controls
If your EPC already lists missing controls as a recommendation, it’s often a strong sign they’ll help your rating.
Step 3: If you’re not close to E, focus on the “big point” upgrades
Many EPC F properties are rated that way because of one (or more) of these issues:
- little or no loft insulation
- unfilled cavity walls (where suitable)
- inefficient heating system (or poor controls)
- room-in-roof heat loss or solid walls
- older electric heating (especially older storage heaters)
If you’re below ~35 points, you usually need at least one higher-impact measure.
1) Loft insulation (or topping up to modern depth)
Typical cost (installed): often around £750–£900 depending on existing insulation and loft size
Why it helps: Heat loss through the roof can be substantial in older homes, and EPCs commonly reward loft insulation.
Practical guidance:
- If your loft insulation is thin (or patchy), topping up can be one of the best-value upgrades.
- Don’t compress insulation under stored items — it reduces performance.
- Insulate the loft hatch and any exposed pipework in the loft for extra benefit.
Good to know:
- If your property is only a few points short of E, loft insulation can sometimes be the single upgrade that gets you over the line.
Want a deeper dive?
Does loft insulation improve your EPC rating?
2) Cavity wall insulation (if your home is suitable)
Typical cost: around £1,000–£2,700 depending on property size, access, and any associated works
Why it helps: Uninsulated cavities can be one of the biggest sources of heat loss, and EPCs often reward wall insulation heavily.
However, cavity wall insulation is not “one-size-fits-all”. It may be unsuitable if your home is:
- highly exposed to wind-driven rain
- in poor external condition (pointing/gutters/brickwork issues)
- flood-prone
- built with narrow cavities
Before installation:
- fix any external maintenance issues first (pointing, gutters, cracks)
- use a reputable installer
- if available, ensure you receive the right guarantees/warranties and documentation
If you’re unsure what walls you have, your EPC may already state “cavity wall” vs “solid wall”.
If it’s a solid wall property, jump to the “harder cases” section below.
3) Upgrade your boiler (or heating system) if it’s genuinely inefficient
Typical cost: often £2,500–£4,500 depending on boiler type, complexity, and controls
Why it helps: Very old boilers (especially non-condensing models) can drag an EPC down.
A boiler upgrade tends to help most when:
- the current boiler is very old/inefficient
- controls are basic or missing
- radiators/pipework are compatible with a modern system
If your EPC recommendation list mentions a boiler upgrade, it’s worth taking seriously — but don’t assume it’s always the best first step.
In many homes, insulation delivers a bigger EPC jump per £ than a boiler replacement.
More detail here:
Does a new boiler improve your EPC rating?
4) If you have electric heating, consider your options carefully
Older electric heating (particularly outdated storage heaters) is a common reason for EPC F.
Possible routes:
- Upgrade to high heat-retention storage heaters (often cheaper than a full heating system change)
- Consider a heat pump, especially if you can access grant funding and improve insulation first
- Improve controls and reduce heat loss before changing heating technology
Heat pumps can significantly improve EPC performance in some homes — but the outcome depends heavily on insulation levels, emitters (radiators/underfloor), and the property’s heat demand.
If you’re exploring heat pumps, look into the Boiler Upgrade Scheme (England & Wales) — it offers a grant towards eligible installations (usually applied for via an installer).
Step 4: Common “F → E” upgrade plans (pick the one closest to your home)
Below are realistic routes that often work in practice. Use your EPC recommendations table to confirm which measures are likely to add the points you need.
Plan A: You’re on F35–F38 (close to E)
Goal: add 1–4 points cheaply.
Start with:
- LED lighting (fixed fittings)
- draught proofing external doors/windows
- cylinder jacket + pipe insulation (if applicable)
- heating controls (if missing)
Typical spend: £50–£500
Plan B: You’re on F30–F34 (moderate gap)
Goal: add 5–9 points.
Usually best value:
- loft insulation/top-up (often the highest ROI)
- heating controls/TRVs
- lighting + basic draught proofing
Typical spend: £500–£1,500 (sometimes more, depending on loft condition and access)
Plan C: You’re on F21–F29 (bigger gap)
Goal: add 10+ points.
Often required:
- loft insulation or room-in-roof insulation (if applicable)
- cavity wall insulation (if suitable) or another high-impact fabric upgrade
- heating system improvements (controls at minimum, boiler/heating upgrade if needed)
Typical spend: £1,500–£3,500+
Hard-to-treat homes can exceed this, especially with solid walls or very inefficient heating.
Harder cases: when the cheapest upgrades won’t be enough
Some properties stay in band F because they’re expensive to treat, not because the owner hasn’t done the basics.
You may need bigger measures if you have:
- solid external walls (especially uninsulated)
- a “room-in-roof” (converted loft space) with poor insulation
- lots of single glazing
- older electric heating with high heat loss
- restrictions (listed building constraints, conservation area requirements, freeholder consent issues)
In these cases, the upgrades that move the EPC can be more like:
- internal/external wall insulation
- room-in-roof insulation
- replacing single glazing with efficient double glazing (or sometimes secondary glazing)
- solar PV (depending on orientation/roof suitability)
- heating system replacement combined with insulation upgrades
These can be excellent long-term improvements — but they’re not always the cheapest way to reach band E quickly.
How much does it cost to go from EPC F to E?
A practical way to think about cost is to group it by how far you are from the band E threshold.
If you’re very close to E (F35–F38)
Likely cost: £50–£500
You may only need lighting, draught proofing, and/or basic controls.
If you’re moderately short (F30–F34)
Likely cost: £500–£1,500
Loft insulation plus low-cost measures is often enough.
If you’re significantly short (F21–F29)
Likely cost: £1,500–£3,500+
You’ll often need insulation plus heating improvements — and sometimes higher-cost fabric work.
If your home is hard-to-treat
Likely cost: £4,000–£15,000+
Solid wall insulation, room-in-roof insulation, or major heating changes can push costs up quickly.
If your goal is to spend the least possible to reach E, your EPC’s recommendations table is the best starting point — it shows which measures the assessor expects to move the rating.
Grants and funding (don’t pay full price if you don’t have to)
Depending on your circumstances, you may be able to get support for insulation and heating upgrades through:
- energy supplier obligations (for eligible homes)
- local authority schemes (often postcode- and household-specific)
- targeted support programmes and installations via approved providers
- heat pump grant support (where eligible)
Because schemes and eligibility change, the best approach is to check what’s currently available and match it to your property type and household situation.
We keep a running overview here:
Home energy grants in the UK: what help is available?
Landlords: EPC F to E for rental property compliance (England & Wales)
If you’re a landlord, improving from F to E isn’t just about bills — it can be about legal compliance.
In England and Wales:
- privately rented properties generally need to meet a minimum EPC rating of E
- if your property is EPC F or G, you typically must improve it to E or register a valid exemption before letting
The cost cap and exemptions (important)
For many landlords, the key rule is the cost cap: you will not generally be required to spend more than £3,500 (including VAT) on energy efficiency improvements to reach EPC E.
If you can’t reach EPC E within that amount:
- you must still install all recommended measures you can up to the cap, then
- register the appropriate exemption (with evidence)
Important practical tip:
- If you’re relying on an exemption route, make sure the measures you choose are recommended on the EPC (or an accepted equivalent report). Otherwise you may not be able to register the “all improvements made” exemption if you still end up below E.
Enforcement
Local authorities enforce the rules. Penalties can apply for renting out a non-compliant property, and the maximum fine can reach £5,000 per property.
If you’re unsure where you stand:
- find your EPC and score
- check the recommendations list
- plan upgrades around the measures that are likely to get you to E fastest and cheapest
If you want to sanity-check the EPC data for your address, use EPC Advisor:
Check your rental property EPC
Step 5: After improvements, get a new EPC (and keep your paperwork)
EPCs don’t update automatically when you do work.
If you need to prove the new rating:
- book a new EPC assessment after the improvements
- keep evidence of what you installed (invoices, certificates, warranties)
- if you’re a landlord, keep documentation ready in case your local authority requests it
Also remember: EPC results can vary if details aren’t captured correctly (for example insulation depth or heating controls). If you’ve improved the home, make sure the assessor can clearly verify the upgrades.
FAQs
How many EPC points do I need to go from F to E?
EPC band E starts at 39 points. Band F is 21–38 points.
So you need: 39 − your current EPC score.
What is the cheapest way to improve an EPC from F to E?
If you’re close to E already, start with:
- LED lighting (fixed fittings)
- draught proofing
- hot water cylinder jacket (if you have a tank)
- heating controls (programmer/thermostat/TRVs)
If you’re further from E, loft insulation (and sometimes cavity wall insulation) is often the best “value per EPC point”.
Can landlords rent out a property with EPC band F?
In England and Wales, most privately rented homes must meet a minimum EPC rating of E.
If your property is EPC F, you generally need to improve it to E before letting, or register a valid exemption (with evidence).
How much does it cost to move from EPC F to E?
It depends on how far below 39 points you are:
- close to E: sometimes under £500
- moderate gap: often £500–£1,500
- larger gap: £1,500–£3,500+
- hard-to-treat homes: £4,000–£15,000+
Do I need a new EPC after making improvements?
Yes. EPCs don’t update automatically. If you need to demonstrate the new rating, you’ll need a fresh EPC assessment.
What to do next
- Check your current EPC score and recommendations
- Use the “quick wins” list if you’re close to band E
- If you’re further away, prioritise loft insulation and the biggest heat-loss issues
- Book a new EPC once the work is complete
Start here:
Check your EPC rating by postcode
If you’re planning further upgrades after hitting E, these may help: